2 racks beef ribs 5 to 7 pounds total (see note)
1 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons freshly cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon paprika
Red-pepper flakes to taste
2 cups hickory chips soaked in water for at least 30 minutes
Barbecue sauce (optional)
TIME 8 1/2 hours
These beef ribs are an adaptation of the ones the chef Kenny Callaghan used to serve at the restaurant Blue Smoke, in Manhattan. For best results, order the ribs ahead of time from a butcher. (Pre-packaged ribs are generally too well-trimmed of meat for good barbecue purpose.) Ask for two back-rib racks trimmed from the prime rib, keeping as much meat on the ribs as possible, each rack approximately 6 ribs wide. That will do you brilliantly. Cook for a while in a bath of hickory smoke, then finish in the oven. Beef, salt, pepper, smoke, fat. You'll need napkins.
Tip
Order ribs ahead of time from a butcher. Ask for 2 back-rib racks trimmed from the prime rib, keeping as much meat on the ribs as possible, each rack approximately 6 ribs wide.
Place the ribs meat-side down on a baking sheet or cutting board and remove the papery membrane from the back of the rack by inserting a small knife beneath it and levering it up to give you enough to gain purchase with a dish towel.
Peel off the membrane and discard.
Mix the salt, pepper, brown sugar, paprika and, if you choose, red-pepper flakes in a bowl, breaking up the brown sugar with a fork.
Using your hands, cover the meat entirely in this rub.
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.
Cook until the meat is crusty, soft to the touch and well browned around 2 hours.
Set the oven to 200 degrees.
Put a pan of water in the oven to contribute moisture.
Set the ribs on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for around 5 hours.
Cut into individual portions. Serve with extra napkins and, if you choose, barbecue sauce.